Amarone is made using a blend of grape varieties. Each contributes to the complexity, elegance, and balance of the wine.
The three main grapes used (Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara) are native to the agricultural area surrounding Verona known as Valpolicella and do not grow well anywhere else in the world. Corvina provides Amarone with body, a deep ruby-red color and a delicate bouquet. Rondinella adds some tannin and a slight flowery edge to the aroma. Finally, Molinara gives the wine a gentle shot of acidity.
The approved mix for Amarone as codified in government regulations is 40-70% Corvina, 20-40% Rondinella, and 5-25% Molinara. Up to 15% of the blend may also come from other (also approved by the regulations) varieties, such as Barbera, Rossignola, or Sangiovese. Another permitted variation is up to 5% from better-known grapes including Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Nero, or Teroldego. All grapes used in Amarone must grow within the confines of the Valpolicella growing area.
The Amarone Harvest
Grapes used to make Amarone are harvested a week or two earlier than those used in the other wines from Verona. Care is taken during the hand-picking process to select the healthiest, best quality bunches. The harvested bunches must be perfectly dry (so cannot be picked immediately following a rain shower) and skins must be undamaged as they are placed in special wooden drying crates.
Each of those crates holds between six and seven kilos (around 15 pounds) of grapes, which are spread evenly in a single layer. The crates are slat construction to permit the passage of air – key to the drying process.
The Amarone Drying Process
The drying process, called appassimento in Italian, lasts two or three months. The drying crates are set in well-ventilated rooms (such as the loft of a large farm house) often with large open windows to facilitate air flow. Each grape is visually inspected repeatedly during the first month of appassimento. Any sign of damage to grape or stem opening results in immediate removal. That kind of damage can easily result in mold infection, which would effectively ruin the wine.
Some producers have taken to placing fans and dehumidifiers in drying rooms. Others also control the temperature. Evidence has shown, however, if the drying process is artificially accelerated, a more bitter flavored wine is the result.
Once bunches are thoroughly dried, stems are removed and the grapes pressed. Yeast is introduced to the liquid and a period of cold fermentation in stainless steel tanks begins. This can last up to two months. Next, the wine is placed in wood (usually Slavonian or French oak) barrels where it will continue to ferment for up to 24 months before bottling. Many wine makers continue to age the wine in bottles for another one to six years before putting it on the market.
The result is a complex, structured, aromatic, full-bodied, deep ruby-colored wine. Some feel it goes best with aged cheeses or hearty meat dishes. But the delicate cherry-raspberry fruitiness along with the raisin-tinged spiciness of Amarone also make the wine a good match for oriental dishes.
True aficionados know that Amarone can be served alone. The only company needed is good friends and lively conversation.
James Sajo - Jim Sajo is a freelance writer living in Northern Italy. Follow him on Facebook at Jim Sajo The Writer.
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